Raleigh Shimano Square Cone Bottom Bracket. Replace the well-known UN54 bottom bracket with this UN55 bottom bracket - excellent value combined with stability and durability. For all cranks with square socket. Quick and easy installation without adjustment. - For road and terrain. Lightweight hollow spindle. Dimensions: 68mm x 110mm.
13 avaliações para Shimano UN55 BB Square Taper Bottom Bracket 68-127 mm/Size 27
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CJ Watson (comprador verificado) –
Great item, well priced,
Item arrived as promised, package appeared to have been opened, but bolts were present and there was no apparent wear or attempted install of bracket.Installed easily into the frame of 1986 Raleigh Marathon, may have been a little easier with the shimano tool. I carefully used channel locks and got it installed with no problem. Original crank arms were installed, I used a pair of xlc hex head crank arm bolts instead of included bolts.I took it for a 25 mile test run, no problems, cranks smooth as hot butter , no snaps, crackles or pops and it looks like my average speed is up from usual 17 to 18.96. (original cup and cone w bearings)If things change after more miles I will update this review. So far great item especially for the money.
Diyjon (comprador verificado) –
A great upgrade to my old-school BB
Once I decided to stick with a square taper BB on my “vintage” Trek, it seemed that picking a sturdy, sealed bearing replacement would be a step in the right (read: “low maintenance”) direction.This BB is a sturdy component – other reviewers indicated grittiness but mine felt smooth and precise. The biggest challenge was getting the old one out of the bike without disturbing the neighbors.If you are upgrading a non-cartridge BB, be sure to take stock of what tools it may require to remove the BB (check Sheldon Brown’s site for some guidance) — and if you aren’t planning on collecting a set of vintage bike tools, you may want to consider having a shop do the work. (gasp!)- J
Chaz Turbino (comprador verificado) –
Fits in my department store bike to replace cheap original BB
This fits perfectly in my department store bike. I have a Kent 22.5″ Genesis from Wal-Mart, and wanted to swap the steel cranks for aluminum Shimano cranks. It turns out the original bottom bracket wasn’t even sealed and instead was two exposed roller bearings with grease that mixed with water and aluminum shavings left over from the manufacturing process. The right side (the chainring side) is reverse threaded, so had I known that, it would have saved me an hour trying to remove the old bottomb racket.The UN26 bottom bracket, recommended for the M311/M131 crankset, works as well but uses a plastic adapter. I opted for the UN55 because of the aluminum adapter for better durability. The UN55 is a sealed cartridge so it won’t be as exposed as the original bottom bracket.The UN55 spins like butter, I’ve grown accustomed to the horrible bottom-dollar adjustable bottom bracket I had, and the UN55 feels like churning butter.Overall: 5/5 stars, high quality, inexpensive
Dean Dicorcia (comprador verificado) –
Seems really solid.
I only have one ride in with this BB so far, but already I can tell it’s a night-and-day improvement over the vintage BB it replaces.I tooled up to overhaul the old BB on a ca. 1990 Trek, and that went well except for the condition of the spindle; it had already become pitted from foreign objects grinding around in there.The new UN55 is butter smooth and feels more solid, too.My only reservation is the spacing. I measured slightly under 113mm on the old spindle, so figured the 113mm UN55 would be the tiniest bit wide. In fact it was a tiny bit narrow, as the chainrings lined up slightly to the left of where they were. I adjusted the limit screw and tension on the front derailleur and the bike seems to work fine now. Not sure whether I should try a wider BB or what; I’m new to proper road bike mechanics. Also I didn’t actually measure the new spindle to verify that it really is 113mm; I only noticed the discrepancy after I assembled the whole thing and I didn’t want to back out all the parts just to measure….My UN55 was shipped from Bell’s Bike Shop and it was missing the bolts. I had to go to a local store and get a couple of spare bolts from their parts bin.
Robert P. Nelson (comprador verificado) –
Very Good Product – Holding Up Fine
I’ve had this BB on my bike for about a year now, it seems to work just great – no problems at all! I expected that, since the original I had was a similar model from Shimano and had worked fine and dependably until the spindle (central rod) unaccountably cracked broke off on the right crank arm side. (Bearings weren’t worn out.)As for self-installation, I did install this bottom bracket easily myself, once I got my old bottom bracket (BB) out. *THAT*s the tricky part. (You do have to know how to take off the crank arms first, of course – crank pulling tool, etc., which I never found difficult.) But I had a hard time loosening the old BB, even with the right BB tool attached to a long lever arm. Finally I was able to do it after I sprayed it with Liquid Wrench and let it soak over night. Getting the new BB in was a breeze after that! Note that if you can’t borrow the right crank pulling and BB removal tools, both sell at Park Tools for about $20 each. Oh yeah… people do warn that it’s easy to cross-thread the new BB as you install it. I felt pretty comfortable going very slowly at first, and just using my fingers to thread it at the start, checking for any sign of resistance at all. (Never got any.) But if you DO cross thread the BB, you risk ripping out the threads inside the BB housing on your bike frame. And if you do that, I think you’re pretty screwed! Time for a whole new frame, as I understand it. So if you’re a complete mechanical klutz, I’d have a bike shop do it. But I’d say it’s a do-able job for people of about average mechanical ability. I know PLENTY of dudes better than me at bike mechanics, but I can fix some stuff. But I did research how to do it online, beforehand. Just make sure you know which way to turn to loosen your old BB! For almost all bikes, you loosen by turning clockwise (opposite the normal direction for loosening regular screws and bolts) on the drive side (right-hand side) and loosen turning counter-clockwise (the normal “leftie-loosey”) on the non-drive side (left-hand side). I’m pretty sure the only exceptions to this are some old Italian and French BBs. Again, Park Tools has a good tutorial on how to remove your old BB and install your new one: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bottom-bracket-service-cartridge-type.
Grapsus (comprador verificado) –
superbe qualité
Ce pédalier est un peu plus cher que les modèles en plastique, mais ça vaut vraiment le coup. La précision et la solidité des pièces est excellente, tout est en métal et une fois monté il n’y a aucun jeu ou bruit. Je m’en suis servi pour remplacer le pédalier d’un VTT décathlon bas de gamme qui grinçait et j’ai l’impression d’avoir changé de vélo !
Marshall David WahlstromHelgren (comprador verificado) –
Awesome Bottom Bracket, worth buying better a metal cup than a plastic one!
Best Shimano Bottom Bracket replacement for my old 68 x 124mm Bottom Bracket which was a discontinued model made by the same company Shimano except that the right side cup was plastic, product came totally unharmed and it was in mint condition. Installing was easy and while it cost more to buy this then the UN-26 its worth the money. I used Park Tool anti-seize compound on the Bracket, to prevent Cold Welding. Another thing I learned is like pedals its left-hand threads tighten, on the right side so you go normal. For a BB you go left to tighten and right to loosen on the left side the cap was normal right to tighten left to loosen. I did have to use a socket wrench for the BIKEHAND BB Bottom Bracket tool but it was totally worth it. Once the tool was on there the Crankset was much simpler to install than when I tried to take the old one off. Would highly recommend this over the UN-26 costs more but it’s better to have metal than plastic, and it pays to buy the anti-seize compound so you avoid two metals like Aluminum and steel fusing together. The last thing you want is your Bottom Bracket to become a one with the bike. Otherwise, you end up taking it to a shop and explaining to them that it needs to be destroyed and your BB shell needs to be rethreaded. Thats a nightmare you want to avoid. I highly recommend this product.
albasnake (comprador verificado) –
prodotto OK
La solita qualità entry level Shimano, c’è poco da aggiungere. Ho appena finito di montarlo, il prodotto come da descrizione, la foto è sbagliata, il perno non è da 115mm, è da 107mm, filetto bsa per scatola da 68mm. MC un po’ pesante a dire il vero, però funzionalità perfetta.Unico neo, la ghiera lato pedivella è in plastica.
Vashfol (comprador verificado) –
TOP
Nickel, ça fait plaisir de pouvoir enfin réutiliser mon vélo !Il a l’air solide, je ne l’ai que depuis peu. Il est donc difficile d’avoir un retour objectif sur ce produit. Je verrai à l’usage.
Charleston Jeeper (comprador verificado) –
Outfitting all 6 of my bikes with this BB
Bought first of these to build up a 2010 Fuji Nevada 5 hardtail frame I scored locally. That worked out very well – the bike came with a generic Chinese cup/cone bottom bracket, which was VERY gritty and a tad loose. I measured the bottom bracket shell and the axle width (with the cranks removed) and it went right in. The only trouble I had was user error in getting the drive side installed straight. Be careful, don’t force it, and make sure you lubricate the threads with grease (or better yet, antiseize) so that when you have to replace the BB cartridge in a few years you don’t have to deal with corrosion- ESPECIALLY if you’re dealing with dissimilar metals.You will need a special tool to install this. Search for a Shimano square taper cartridge BB tool, it’s less than 10 bucks.Liked that so much, when I went to rehab some of my mid-90s mountain bikes and realized they had 25 year old grease in them, I merely pulled the cranks and measured axle width and shell width. 68×123, as it happens. Hardest part about installing the unit in that bike was removing the old school cup/cone bearings. The Fuji used the same tool as this BB uses, but the old Caloi used the pin spanner affair like we did when I last worked in a bike shop. Same story once I got the old BB out- hardest part of the install was aligning the new unit with the threads. A set of calipers help- if having trouble, measure the gap between the BB flanges and the shell, top, bottom, and sides. All should be the same measurement if you are straight. DO NOT force it. Make sure your shell is clean, degrease and degrease before install. If you strip those thread, you’re pretty much screwed.Use grease (better, antiseize) between the shell and BB, and on the tapers tapers before fitting the cranks. You DO use it on your pedal threads too right? Or at least use threadlock. You want to have something to prevent galvanic bonding (rust ‘welding’ the assembly together, and to keep water out.Like this so much I am 3 bikes in, with 4 to go. All of them (Fuji Nevada 5 (done), 95 Caloi rigid MTB (done), 95 Caloi hardtail MTB, 2010 KHS XC4 (done), 94 Diamondback Interval TG road bike, and 88 Bianchi Sport SX road bike will be getting this BB. I like it because it is inexpensive, durable, and simple to install/maintain. Square taper is proven, and plenty good enough for me as an old guy returning to cycling. Plus, the old gear I’m running is cheap to upgrade, this makes a great foundation for my full-LX group builds on the MTB platforms (though I am using hydro brakes, but that is another discussion entirely).
stéph (comprador verificado) –
Installation facile
J’ai acheté ce boîtier de pédalier en deux exemplaires pour deux vieux vélos achetés d’occasion. L’installation est très facile avec les outils adaptés (arrache manivelle et bague pour boitier de pédalier) et la différence est flagrante : les deux vélos dont les manivelles ne tenaient plus en place, dont le boîtier de pédalier craquait, couinait, bloquait sont redevenus comme neuf. Plus aucun bruit, beaucoup moins d’effort pour pédaler. Sur les deux vélos, R.A.S après plusieurs mois d’utilisations, je recommande ce produit.
Broseph (comprador verificado) –
Fit my 2015 Schwinn trailway perfectly
Fit an older Schwinn trailway perfectly, works like a charm. I removed the crank arms with a crank arm puller tool. Then i removed the existing bearings with a bottom bracket lockring wrench. Used wd40 to dissolve the grease, wiped it clean with a rag or paper towel, paying special attention to the threads. I used a 1/2″ drive ratchet on the shimano bottom bracket tool to get it snug on both sides, then fully seated it with a 24″ 1/2″ drive breaker bar. Don’t buy the generic shimano bb tool, it had a tendency to tilt and slip. Took it for a spin and the annoying creaking and snapping sound was finally gone and felt rock solid. Cleaning, repacking, and adjusting the cones only helped for a few miles. Don’t waste your time, just upgrade to this sealed bb!
◀Pugzu Daddy▶ 🇬🇧 (comprador verificado) –
Perfect to replace an 80’s Raleigh BB
Having never replaced a BB before, I was a little hesitant to tackle the job, however my old 1984 Raleigh Pro-Race had developed an ever-increasing wobble and, despite tightening it up twice before, it was on the way out. I had ordered replacement bearings and was going to refurb it, until I realised how cheap this BB was to get. Everyone in my cycling club recommended a sealed BB.Removal of the old Raleigh BB was straight forward, including cleaning the frame for the new sealed BB.Installation, as shown in my photos, was a piece of cake and took less than 10 minutes.The BB arrived without a box and the instructions were useless. Despite this, it was simply a case of threading the unit from the crank (right) side into the frame, with a little grease on the thread. That side does up anti-clockwise. Once tightened by an adjustable spanner, I switched over to the non-crank (left) side to do the same with the aluminium part, this time tightening clockwise (it was easier at this point to have the bike upside down). This took a little more effort to tighten, however it did get there by using the adjustable spanner again. Both sections were tightened sufficiently (without too much force) and flush to the frame.The BB comes with 2 bolts for re-installing the crankset.All done. It turns so much more smootly now and should give me years of hassle-free cycling.If my review has helped, along with the photos, please consider clicking the ‘helpful’ button below. I’m also more than happy to answer any questions if you get stuck.